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Hello there! Thank you for checking out the blog post containing the FREE CROCHET PATTERN for Ooze Skinny Can & Bottle Cozies! Scroll down for design notes and the free pattern, as well as an option to purchase the AD-FREE PDF download.
Continuing the spooky theme for this month, I’m excited to share the ooze cup cozy – skinny can version! This is a cute and festive accessory for tall/skinny cans (think Alani, White Claw, etc) or standard 120z long neck bottles. This pattern is worked from the bottom up in rounds, then it is worked following the chart below (in the round).
Continue scrolling for the free pattern, or click HERE to purchase the AD-FREE PDF pattern from my Etsy shop!
Materials Needed:
- Size 4.5 mm crochet hook (I use these and these glitter hooks – they’re awesome!)
- 1 ball each (71g / 2.5 oz, 109 meters / 120 yards) of Lily Sugar N Cream in colors of your choice or similar worsted weight/weight 4 category cotton yarn. I used red, black, white, hot orange, hot purple, and hot green.
- Stitch Markers
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
Finished Measurements:
About 5.75″ height x 3.5″ width (flat)
Gauge:
Gauge isn’t super important for this project; you may have to go up or down a hook size to obtain finished measurements.
3″ x 3″ = about 10.5 sts x 15 rows
Pattern Notes:
- The colors can be customized; feel free to choose whatever colors you want!
- These were designed to fit tall/skinny cans (12oz) or standard long neck bottles (12oz).
- The bobble stitch in this pattern is made up of 3 double crochet stitches. To make a bobble, *y/o, insert hook into st, draw up a loop, y/o, pull through 2 loops*; repeat ** two more times (you should have 4 loops left on your hook), then y/o and pull through all loops on hook.
- To seamlessly change colors, “finish” the stitch before a color change with the next color you need to use.
- Rounds are worked continuously/with no slst or chains at the end of each round; if you are a beginner, I would recommend using stitch markers to keep track of the beginning (place in first stitch) or end of the round (place in last stitch).
- The chart is worked right to left.
- For color changes, I loosely float the non-working yarn behind the work until the next color change/to the end of the round. I then stitch over top of the floated yarn while working the next round.
- Each single crochet is worked between the posts of the single crochet in the row below to help keep the design from twisting, as follows:
Stitches Used:
- Single Crochet
- Double Crochet
- Bobble Stitch (see instructions above in Notes)
- Slip Stitch
- Chain
Abbreviations (US):
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- slst = slip stitch
- y/o = yarn over
- rep = repeat
- Pm = place marker
- BLO = back loop only
Chart:
Note – each dot represents a bobble stitch on the chart above.
Pattern:
With color A, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Still using color a, ch 1, 6 sc in magic ring. Pull to tighten. Slst into top of 1st sc. (6)
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 2 sc in each st around to last st, 1 sc in last st. Slst into top of 1st sc. (12)
Round 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 2 sc in each st around to last st, 1 sc in last st. Slst into top of 1st sc. (24)
Round 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each st around. Slst into top of 1st sc. (25)
Round 5: [this round is worked in BLO] 1 sc in each st around, PM in 1st st. Sk last st. (25)
Rounds 6-20: 1 sc in each st around, PM in 1st st.
Round 21 (row 3 of the chart): 12 sc in color A, PM in 1st st. Switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, 12 sc.
Round 22 (row 4 of the chart): PM in 1st st. With color A, sc 2; switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, sc 9; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 3; switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, sc 5; switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, sc 2.
Round 23 (row 5 of the chart): PM in 1st st. With color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 4; switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, sc 4; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 3; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2.
Round 24 (row 6 of the chart): PM in 1st st. With color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 4; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 4; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 3; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2.
Round 25 (row 7 of the chart): PM in 1st st. With color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, bobble; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 3; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2.
Round 26 (row 8 of the chart): PM in 1st st. With color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 2; switch to color A, sc 2; switch to color B, sc 2; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, sc 1; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, sc 2; switch to color A, sc 2.
Round 27 (row 9 of the chart): PM in 1st st. With color A, sc 1; switch to color B, sc 5; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, sc 7; switch to color A, sc 1; switch to color B, sc 9; switch to color A, sc 1.
Round 28 (row 10 of the chart): With color B, sc in each st around. Slst into top of first st. Tie off yarn, leaving a long tail to weave in.
As always, I hope you enjoy this pattern! Please feel free to leave any questions in the comments or e-mail me. If you try this pattern, please share it with me on Instagram using #sarahfaithcrafts or tagging me @SarahFaithCrafts.
Happy Making! xoxo
