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Hi everyone! Thanks for checking out the free crochet pattern for the Tapestry Crochet Diamond Potholders. Scroll down for the free pattern and design notes!
The last few patterns I’ve shared have been made with Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn and this one is no different! I have a ton of Lily Sugar n Cream taking up space in my stash, and now is the perfect time to find a purpose for all those balls of yarn.
I’ve been admiring a lot of pillows, blankets, and other home items with graphic prints lately (diamonds, stripes, triangles – I love it all) and felt inspired to try a tapestry crochet project. So I decided to design a little square just to test myself and I love how it turned out! I have a few design ideas using the tapestry pattern I created.
If you haven’t tried tapestry crochet before, this is a great project to start with. It’s small, quick, easy – totally beginner friendly! Plus, if one side of your work looks much better than the other side, you can hide the bad side because this potholder is made from TWO pieces that are seamed together at the end. I prefer this method of making potholders because they’re extra thick and I have less ends to weave in 😉
I designed the chart originally to repeat for a blanket or larger item, so that is also an option if you like the design of the chart.
Click HERE for the inexpensive AD-FREE and PRINTER FRIENDLY version of this pattern, or scroll down for the free pattern & tapestry chart!
Materials Needed:
- Size US H – 5.00mm crochet hook (I use these from Amazon – they’re amazing!)
- 2 (2.5 oz/120 yd) balls of Lily Sugar n Cream in colors of your choice. I used Yellow and Ecru
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Gauge & Measurements:
- 4″ x 4″: 14 sts x 15 rows
- Finished Size: 8″ x 8″
Abbreviations (US):
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Stitches Used:
- Single Crochet (if you don’t know how to do this stitch, check out my tutorial here!)
Chart:
Notes: I start working the chart from left to right in the pattern below. After you complete a row, start on the same side of the chart that you ended on. So the first row of the chart will start with a single crochet in your main color, and end with a single crochet in your contrasting color (grid 1 on the chart above). The next row will start with two single crochets in your contrasting color and end with one single crochet in your contrasting color.
After I crocheted the full chart, I repeated rows 1-7 of the chart to add length, starting with the right side of the chart.
I added an extra stitch on each side of the chart for a border (not included in chart). The first and last stitches of the row will always be in your main color.
The main color and contrasting color strands will be carried through each row. This means that you will crochet over one strand while working with the other. Keep your stitches on the tighter side when doing tapestry crochet to prevent the yarn you are carrying from being too visible.
Pattern:
Main color = MC
Contrasting color = CC
Using MC, ch 27.
Row 1: Using MC, sc in the third ch from hook. Sc in each ch across. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in the 1st st of row. Still using MC, sc in the next 3 sts. Switch to CC, sc 5. Switch to MC, sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row (note: this is not the turning chain from the previous row!). Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: WIth MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 7: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 8: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 9: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 10: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 2. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 2. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 11: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 2. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 12: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 2. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 2. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 13: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 14: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 15: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 16: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 17: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 18: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 19: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 2. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 20: With MC, sc in the 1st of the row. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
**At this point, the full chart is complete. I wanted to add more length to my potholder, so repeated rows 1-7 of the chart, beginning with the right side of the chart. **
Row 21: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 22: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 2. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 23: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 5. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 2. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 24: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 25: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 1. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 26: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 5. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 1. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 27: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 1. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 3. MC: sc 3. CC: sc 2. MC, sc 1 in last st of the row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 28: With MC, sc in the 1st st of the row. Sc all stitches across using MC. Tie off yarn at the end of the row.
Now, repeat rows 1-28 a second time for the other side of the potholder. My favorite part of this pattern is deciding the color scheme! For my yellow potholder, I chose to invert the colors on each side.
To seam the potholders together, place the two pieces of fabric together, right sides facing out. Insert your hook into one of the corners and draw up a loop. Sc 3 in the corner stitch, then sc in each st and row around, making sure you are inserting your hook through both pieces of fabric. Each corner should have 3 sc. When you have seamed up back to the corner you started with, slip stitch into the nearest sc. Ch 12, and slst back into the corner to make a loop that you can use to hang your potholder.
And that’s how you make a tapestry crochet diamond potholder!
As always, I hope you enjoy this pattern! Please feel free to leave any questions in the comments or e-mail me. If you try this pattern out, please share it with me on social media using #sarahfaithcrafts or tagging me @SarahFaithCrafts.
Thank you & happy stitching!
